Custom engagement rings in New York City

An engagement ring is worn every day for decades, so it should be made for one particular hand and one particular person. That is the work I have done since 1984: listening closely, choosing the right stone, and designing a ring that feels as if it could not have belonged to anyone else.

How a commission works

1. A private conversation

We begin at the studio on the Bowery. You tell me about the person, what they wear now, how they use their hands, and any shapes or details you have noticed them admire. A photograph of a ring they love is useful. So is a picture of one they would never wear. If you would like to arrive with something concrete, you can explore a direction in the online design studio first and send it to me.

2. Choosing the diamond

I source diamonds to fit the design and the budget, and I show you options side by side so you can see the differences rather than read about them. I am GIA-trained, and I explain cut, color, clarity, and carat weight in plain terms. Cut matters most to how a diamond looks on the hand, so it is where I encourage clients to be most demanding. For significant stones I generally recommend an independent grading report from the Gemological Institute of America.

3. Developing the design

With the stone chosen, we resolve the setting: the profile, the shape and width of the band, how the stone is held, and how the ring sits beside a wedding band. Small decisions here change how a ring wears. A lower setting catches on less, a slightly wider band feels more substantial, and a carefully proportioned head lets a diamond take in light. You review and approve the design before anything is made.

4. Making and finishing

Once you approve the design and written quote, the ring is made, set, and finished. I check the finished ring myself before it is yours. From an approved design this often takes six to ten weeks, and I will give you a realistic date for your particular ring at the outset. My custom jewelry timeline guide explains each stage.

Diamonds and metals

I work primarily with natural diamonds. A natural diamond is rare and formed over geological time, and for a piece meant to be handed down, that matters to many of my clients. Lab-grown diamonds are available on request; they are real diamonds, chemically the same, and I am glad to discuss them honestly. My guide to natural and lab-grown diamonds sets out the tradeoffs.

For the setting, I most often use platinum or 18k gold. Platinum is naturally white, dense, and holds stones securely; over time it develops a soft patina that some people love and others have polished away. 18k gold comes in yellow, rose, and white. White gold is usually rhodium plated for brightness and benefits from replating every so often. Many rings combine metals, for example platinum prongs on a yellow gold band, to keep a diamond looking as white as possible.

Shapes and settings

Round brilliants return the most light, but ovals, cushions, emeralds, pears, and old cuts each have their own character. Solitaires, three-stone rings, halos, and bezels each suit different hands and different lives. A bezel protects the edge of a stone and suits someone who works with their hands; a fine four- or six-prong setting shows more of the diamond. I would rather show you than prescribe, so we try shapes and proportions together.

Budget

Every ring is quoted individually, and the center stone usually shapes the budget more than anything else. If you are comfortable sharing a range early, it helps me show you the strongest options within it.

Already have a stone?

Many of my engagement rings begin with a family diamond. Resetting an older stone takes particular care, and I always inspect it first. Read resetting an heirloom diamond and redesigning a grandmother's ring, or see my heirloom redesign page.

Visiting the studio

The studio is at 70 Bowery, close to Canal Street and a short walk from several subway lines. I see clients by private appointment so we have uninterrupted time together. Clients come from across Manhattan and Brooklyn, and from New Jersey. Request an appointment when you are ready.